This West Loop cocktail hub raises the bar on fine dining and delivers a superb lineup of sake- and shochu-centric sips, and delicate bites imbued with Japanese flavors. The dining room offers à la carte shareables, while the beautifully fleeting omakase menu is pricey for the portion sizes, but makes up for it on the drink side.
The vibe: This Japanese-inspired cocktail bar and restaurant, helmed by chef, creative director and beverage visionary Julia Momosé, is one of measured pace and care.
The food: Kumiko’s eight-seat omakase bar lends a peek into the humming kitchen through an intricately carved wood shade that acts as a focal point of the restaurant. An evolving tasting menu is offered gluten-free and pescatarian upon request, and Kumiko suggests allowing up to three hours for the full experience.
The drinks: The accompanying sakes ranged from supple and delicately floral junmai to crisp, dry and nutty futsu shu—all beautiful counterparts to pristine oceanic bites. Still, it’s hard to outshine Momose’s exquisite cocktails, like her woodsy, citrusy sudachi shochu with tonic, sage and kumquat, and an elegant blend of mellow aged junmai sake, shiro and apricot eau de vie that tastes like boozy blossoming fruit trees and melted snow.
Time Out tip: Sake and shochu cocktails and low- or no-proof sips headline Julia Momose’s imaginative menu, but we love asking for a recommendation on sake, which harmonizes beautifully with the refined, umami-rich fare. We recommend planning ahead to nab one of eight seats at the omakase counter. Easier to come by are seats in the handsome dining room.
Updated with reporting by Lauren Brocato